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BEGi Rising
Rate Fuel
Pressure Regulator Installation Instructions
Purpose of the Rising Rate Regulator
The BEGI regulators are designed specifically to add fuel to EFI
engines modified with turbos, superchargers, and normally aspirated.
This is accomplished by using the manifold vac/pressure to drive the
fuel pressure up as the boost rises, or with the N/A engines, as the
vacuum goes toward atmospheric. The three types have differing
part numbers.
For These Types
of Regulators ONLY!!!
PN: 2025 Aftermarket turbo and supercharger
PN: 2027 Same as 2025, except threads are 1/4 NPT
PN: 2022 Factory (OEM) turbo and supercharger
PN: 2023 Normally aspirated
Installation
Please refer to
the labeled diagram below.
The rising rate regulators fit into the fuel system after the
stock regulator, and in series with it. They become the last item
before the fuel returns to the tank. Do not remove the stock
regulator, as it still controls the fuel flow under most manifold
vacuum conditions.
The regulators can be
mounted in any position. For convenience, place the adjustment screws
within easy access.
The most difficult aspect
of installation is getting the fuel lines onto the correct fittings.
Older model regulators, made from castings, had labels of
“in/out” on the barb bosses. “In” is for the fuel line from the
stock regulator. “Out” is the return line heading straight back
to the fuel tank. The “in” and “out” of the new regulators are
similarly designated.
Fuel fittings for the
2022, 2023, & 2025 are 1/8 NPT. The 2027 has 1/4 NPT threads
Some form of thread
sealant is advised. We prefer one drop of Loctite per joint. In
general, please avoid teflon tape as the residue and debris can get
into the fuel system if not extremely careful. If tape gets inside of
the FMU it will void your warranty.
The threaded bosses on
the regulators are strong enough for a zillion ft-lbs of torque, they
will not crack. They can be stripped, but neither failure is
warrantable.
THE CHECK VALVE:
White end is closest to the regulator!
The black end of
the check valve is not attached to anything!
Signal Lines
The regulators are powered by manifold vacuum and pressure. The
signal must come from the intake manifold, after the throttle
plate. These will not work properly if the signal comes from
anywhere else. There are two small hose fittings on the cap of
the regulator. One of the two lines up and points directly at the
screw in the center of the regulator. That is the signal line
hose barb. The other fitting points in a direction askew to the
centerline, it is the fitting for the check valve. On occasion
the regulators will not adjust to a sufficiently low rate of
gain. In this instance, it is necessary to add the small
restrictor to the signal line. This is provided for your convenience.
The restrictor is non-directional, it can point either way.
Check Valves
Two functions are accomplished by the check valve. One, the
simple plugging of a small vacuum/boost leak. Second, vacuum is
required to pull the preload spring under the center screw away from
the valve so stock fuel pressures can be achieved under manifold vacuum
conditions.
Adjustments
Please keep in mind that the OEM or aftermarket status of the vehicle
doesn’t change if one swaps turbos on an OEM automobile. It is OEM
because the fuel system was designed for forced induction
originally. That status doesn’t change unless one changes the
fuel system in some manner.
Only one adjustment is
required of the NA and OEM turbo/supercharger regulators, whereas the
aftermarket turbo requires two adjustments. For the NA/OEM
regulators, only the maximum pressure achieved is of interest.
For the aftermarket, both the point of onset and the maximum pressure
are adjusted.
In all installations, we
urge tuning be aided with an air/fuel ratio meter and fuel
pressure gauge.
Pump Requirements
The pump pressures needed to run the rising rate regulators vary with
each type. The 2023's for the NA engines do not need much
pressure and are always compatible with a stock/original pump, provided
it is in proper condition, of course. The OEM turbo/sc style
units need pressures in the 70/80 range to function well, while the
aftermarket turbo/sc will need a minimum of 95 psi for 7 to 8 psi
boost. Checking the pump is discussed later.
NA Regulator, 2023
For the NA regulator, the center screw is the only adjustment possible.
It determines the fuel pressure achieved at full throttle.
Turning the screw clockwise raises the fuel pressure. An approximate
graph of fuel pressure is shown in figure 2023. This is an
approximation only for the purposes of suggesting to you the general
ranges of operation.
Figure 2023
50
*
48
*
46
*
Fuel
44
*
Pressure
42
*
40
*
38
*
36
*
34
32 ------------------------------------------
12 10
8 6
4 2 0
Manifold Vacuum
OEM System Regulator
The OEM turbo/supercharger requires more fuel if the boost pressure is
raised beyond the factory level. Additional fuel is only required
for that extra increment of boost, and not through the entire boost
operation. This adjustment is controlled solely by the needle
valve. The amount of increase required is modest and is suggested
by figure 2022.
Figure 2022
75
*
70
*
65
*
60
*
Fuel
55
*
Pressure
50
*
45
*
40
*
35
30 ---------------------------------------------------------
2 4
6 8
10 12
14 16 18
Boost Pressure
Aftermarket
Turbo/Supercharger Regulator
Two adjustment are necessary with this regulator. NA engines that are
subsequently fitted with forced induction often exhibit extreme
leanness in the range of 4 inches of vacuum to approximately 3 psi
boost. The cause for this is that the turbo/sc can achieve atmospheric
pressure in the manifold prior to the throttle being fully open.
Without full opening, the throttle position sensor will not properly
inform the ECU of what’s going on, hence, a lean condition
occurs. This is not as prominent in later model ODB2 automobiles
where the O2 sensor feedback covers a broader range.
Pressure calculation: the
fuel pressure required increases with the square of the boost pressure
ratio:
Example: 6 psi boost is a pressure ratio of 1.41. With
stock fuel pressure of 36 at zero boost, than:
Needed fuel
pressure = ( PR2 x 36) + boost = (1.412 x 36) +
6 = 77.5 psi
The first adjustment is
of fuel pressure is at the atmospheric pressure point, and can best be
done at idle. To simulate passing through the zero point, the
vacuum line must be removed from the our FPR. The FPR then sees
atmospheric pressure as a signal, same as zero on the boost
gauge. Control of the fuel pressure at the zero point is by the
Allen screw in the center of the FPR. Clockwise on the screw will
raise the pressure. Once adjusted, plug the vacuum line back onto
the FPR and observe the fuel pressure drop to the stock
figure. A suggested pressure for starters is 48 to 50 psi.
Please understand, this will vary from engine to engine, and is not a
magic number. The “magic” number is whatever pressure your
vehicle requires to pass thru the boost onset without the lean flat
spot. It is not unusual to see pressure anywhere from 40 psi to
55 psi. Use whatever works best.
The second adjustment,
the needle valve, controls the rate of gain of fuel pressure versus
boost pressure. The lowest rate of gain is with the needle valve fully
open, the highest, fully closed. Clockwise closes the needle
valve. Figure 2025 offers a typical guide to fuel pressure versus
boost pressure.
Caution: There is a vague
limit that exists with regard to the maximum possible fuel
pressure. The industry Barbara S of injectors jamming at 50 psi
and the flow not increasing with pressure is not correct. It is
possible for a very large injector (90 + lbs/hr) to jam at 100+ psi of
fuel pressure. At anything less than that, jamming is not going to
happen.
Figure 2025
120
*
*
100
*
*
80
*
*
Fuel
60
*
Pressure
*
40
20 -----------------------------------------------------------
0 1
2 3
4 5
6 7
8 9 10
Boost Pressure
Checking Pump Pressures
A brief check of the maximum fuel pressure available should also be
done at idle. This is essentially determining the pump’s pressure
capability. None of the regulators can force a pump past it
maximum pressure potential. With a pair of pliers, squeeze the fuel
line shut that connects the FPR to the original fuel pressure
regulator. When squeezed shut, the pump will be forced to maximum
output. Make sure the pressure available is consistent with your
intentions. In all cases, the pressure must show, in this idle
test, to be about 10 psi higher than the desired fuel pressure,
as the available pressure under real load conditions will be less than
that measured at idle. This test does not actually prove the pump
to be adequate under boost, but if it doesn’t pass this test, it is
certainly a waste of time to continue with the same pump.
The maximum fuel pressure
is controlled by the needle valve and must be determined while driving
the car under boost. Start with the needle valve closed, which is
fully clockwise. Unlikely the FPR will need this adjustment, but
the test also serves the purpose of proving the pump will do the job
needed. A weak fuel pump will cause a drop in fuel pressure as the
engine is revved higher. If the pump cannot maintain the desired
psi to the engine redline, it is not in satisfactory condition to feed
the turbo/sc engine and must either be replaced or supplemented with an
auxiliary pump.
NOTICE
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This product is protected
by state common law, copyright and/or patent. All legal rights are
therein are reserved. The designs, layout, dimension, geometry, and
engineering features shown in this product are the exclusive property
of Bel Experimental Group, Inc. This product may not be copied or
duplicated in whole or part, abstractly or fundamentally, intentionally
or fortuitously, nor shall any design, dimension,or other information
be incorporated into any product or apparatus without prior written
consent of Bell Experimental Group, Inc.
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Trouble Shooting
1. Jams at maximum fuel
pressure:
The R3 is installed backwards.
The center screw in bottomed out inside and must be backed off.
2. Pressure doesn’t rise:
No signal.
Signal is blocked.
Pump won’t make any more than that pressure, squeeze the fuel line shut
and see.
The exiting check valve is stuck open. Test by closing the needle valve
and sucking on the signal line. It should be a dead end.
3. Pressure rises, but
not enough:
Close the needle valve.
Increase the center screw (static) adjustment.
Check the pump again, but remember, it will have less pressure at high
loads, than at idle.
4. Pressure rises, but
too high:
Open the needle valve further.
Back off the center screw somewhat.
Add the restrictor
5. Fuel pressure
oscillates:
A slow oscillation of about one hertz can also result from the
regulator being hooked up backwards.
A faster oscillation, more like a buzz, but without the noise, is
usually induced by a rapid pulsation from the fuel pump. Not much
can fix it short of a different brand of pump or a pulse damper. The
condition is not harmful at boost pressures of 8 psi or less.
6. Regulator buzzes under
boost: This fault occurs occasionally when fuel pump and manifold
pressure oscillations overlap to reinforce each other. Usually,
it can be quieted by turning the center screw one or two flats.
If it cannot be quieted in this way, return the regulator to us for an
overhaul or replacement.
Warranty: The regulators
are warranted for workmanship and function for one year from the date
of shipment from our facility. No open threads, user installed
threaded items, or adjustable threads are warranted in any way.
Warranty may also be voided is teflon tape is used.
To Order: Call 830-438-2890 or fax at 830-438-8361.
Copyright © 2006 BEGi. All rights reserved. Violators
will be prosecuted.
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