Purpose and description of
the Multi-Role (MR) Rising Rate Regulator
This B.E.G.I. regulator is designed
specifically for the multi-role function of controlling
EFI fuel pressures under vacuum operation (replacing
the factory regulator) and providing additional
fuel when under boost from either a supercharger or
turbocharger. This is accomplished by
using the manifold vacuum/pressure to drive the fuel
pressure up at a high rate of gain as the boost rises
and offer the one-to-one ratio when off boost. The
MR regulator is adjustable on three ways. The
base EFI pressure is adjustable in the 20 to 50 psi
range. The rising rate function can be adjusted
for both onset of gain and rate of gain.
Types
of regulators
PN: 2035
Aftermarket turbo and supercharger
PN: 2032 Factory (OEM) turbo and supercharger (not
adjustable for onset of gain)
General
Information
1. The multi-role regulator
fits into the fuel system after the fuel rail. It
is necessary to cap off, and remove the original regulator.
2. The regulators can be
mounted in any position. For convenience, place the
adjustment screws within easy access.
3. “In” is for the fuel
line from the fuel rail. This is the only reference
to direction of fuel flow.
The unmarked fitting goes back to the fuel tank.
The plug, already installed, remains as is or is appropriate
for a pressure gauge.
4. Some form of thread sealant
is advised. We prefer one drop of Loctite or a small
smear of Perma-Tex, per joint. In general, please
avoid teflon tape as the residue and debris can get
into the fuel system.
5. The threaded bosses on
the regulators are strong enough for a zillion ft-lbs
of torque, they will not crack. They can be
stripped, but neither failure is covered with any
warranty.
Pump Requirements
The pump pressures needed to run the rising rate regulators are
relatively high. Anticipate the need for pump outputs of
approximately 100 psi to operate the typical aftermarket
turbo/supercharger system. Checking the pump is discussed
later.
Signal Lines
The regulators are powered by manifold vacuum and pressure. The
signal must come from the intake manifold, after the throttle plate,
and is handled by a single line. These regulators will not work
properly if the signal comes from anywhere else. There are two
connections for the signal line on the regulator. Assemble a tee
from the brass and 5/32 hose. From the cross bar of the tee,
place one hose onto the fitting on the top cap that points directly at
the center of the regulator. The second hose from the tee goes to
the small hose barb on the side of the lower, cylindrical part.
Lastly, the third leg of the tee gets routed to the intake manifold.
Check Valves
Two functions are accomplished by the check valve. One, the
simple plugging of a small vacuum/boost leak. Second, vacuum is
required to pull the pre-load spring under the rising rate center screw
away from the valve so thus reverting the regulator control to the
one-to-one side. Stock fuel pressures are then achieved under
manifold vacuum conditions. The check valve white end attaches to
a short segment of vacuum hose, and the hose plugs onto the 5/32 hose
barb attached to the needle valve. This allows venting the boost
signal for adjustment, but will seal under vacuum. The check
valve blows off into the atmosphere, do not hook it to the manifold or
anywhere else.
THE
CHECK VALVE: White end is closest to the regulator!
The black end of the
check valve is not attached to anything!

The Restrictor
On occasion the regulators will not adjust to a sufficiently low rate
of gain. In this instance, it is necessary to add the small
restrictor to the signal line. This is provided for your convenience.
The restrictor is non-directional, it can point either way. Place
the restrictor in the signal line at the entry into the R/R side so it
affects only that side.
Checking Pump Pressures
A brief check of the maximum fuel pressure available should also be
done at idle. This is essentially determining the pump’s pressure
capability. None of the regulators can force a pump past it
maximum pressure potential. With a pair of pliers, squeeze the fuel
line shut that connects our regulator to the original fuel pressure
regulator. When squeezed shut, the pump will be forced to maximum
output. Make sure the pressure available is consistent with your
intentions. In all cases,
the pressure must show, in this idle test, to be about 10 psi
higher than the desired fuel pressure, as the available pressure under
real load conditions will be less than that measured at idle.
This test does not actually prove the pump to be adequate under boost,
but if it doesn’t pass this test, it is certainly a waste of time to
continue with the same pump. In general, we do not recommend exceeding
100/110 psi fuel pressure.
Adjusting the 2035
Three adjustment are necessary with this regulator. NA engines that are
subsequently fitted with forced induction often exhibit extreme
leanness in the range of 4 inches of vacuum to approximately 3 psi
boost. The cause for this is that the turbo/sc can achieve atmospheric
pressure in the manifold prior to the throttle being fully open.
Without full opening, the throttle position sensor will not send the
proper signal to the ECU, hence, a lean condition occurs. To
counter this we’ve made the “onset” of fuel pressure rise
adjustable. The 2035 can actually start raising the fuel pressure
prior to being under boost. This is accomplished by the center
screw in the R/R section of the regulator. The actual rate of
gain of the fuel pressure rise relative to the boost is under the
control of the needle valve at the side of the R/R section.
Adjusting the static fuel pressure for normally aspirated operation is
the responsibility of the screw at the end of the 1/1 section. In
all installations, we urge tuning be aided with an air/fuel ratio meter.
After the regulator is in
place, all signal lines attached and the check valve in position,
adjustment can begin.
The vacuum control of 1/1
regulation has been set by BEGI to 36 psi at atmospheric pressure (zero
manifold). The engine should start and idle properly. Start
the engine and inspect for fuel leaks. Correct any leaks before
proceeding further.
First adjustment:
Check the idle fuel
pressure. It will be less than 36 psi due to the manifold vacuum
of idle RPM. Verify the 36 psi setting by pulling the signal line
from the 1/1 side of the regulator. It is necessary to pinch or
plug shut the removed signal line to read the fuel pressure, as the vac
leak will upset the R/R part of the regulator. If the gauge
reading is not 36 psi, trim it to 36 with the 1/1 screw. Then
snug the jam nut and replace the vac signal line.
Second adjustment:
The second adjustment of
fuel pressure is the onset of gain. This represents the fuel
pressure as the manifold conditions cross from vac into boost. This is
done at idle. To simulate passing through the zero point, the vacuum
line must be removed from the R/R side. The regulator then sees
atmospheric pressure as a signal, the same as zero on the boost
gauge. Control of the fuel pressure at the zero point is by the
Allen screw in the center of the R/R side of the regulator.
Clockwise on the screw will raise the pressure. Once adjusted,
plug the vacuum line back onto the regulator and observe the fuel
pressure drop back to the stock figure. A suggested
starting point pressure 48 to 50 psi. Please understand, this
will vary from engine to engine, and is not a magic number. The
“magic” number is whatever pressure your vehicle requires to pass thru
the boost onset without the lean flat spot. It is not unusual to
see pressure anywhere from 40 psi to 55 psi. Use whatever works
best.
Third adjustment:
Adjust the R/R needle
valve when testing under boost.
The maximum fuel pressure
is controlled by the needle valve and must be determined while driving
the car under boost. Start with the needle valve closed, which is
fully clockwise.
Pressure calculation:
The fuel pressure required increases with the square of the boost
pressure ratio:
Example: 6 psi
boost is a pressure ratio of 1.41. With stock fuel pressure of 36 at
zero boost, than:
Needed
fuel pressure = ( PR2 x 36) + boost = (1.412 x
36) + 6 = 77.5 psi
The second adjustment, the needle valve, controls the rate of gain of
fuel pressure versus boost pressure. The lowest rate of gain is with
the needle valve fully open, the highest, fully closed. Clockwise
closes the needle valve. Figure 2025 offers a typical guide to
fuel pressure versus boost pressure. Caution: There is a
vague limit that exists with regard to the maximum possible fuel
pressure. The industry Barbara S (BS) of injectors jamming at 50
psi and the flow not increasing with pressure is not correct. It
is possible for a very large injector (90 + lbs/hr) to jam at 100+ psi
of fuel pressure. At anything less than that, jamming is not going to
happen.
Figure
2035
120
*
*
100
*
*
80
*
*
Fuel
60
*
Pressure
*
40
20
0
1
2 3
4 5
6
7
8 9
10
Boost
Pressure
Trouble Shooting
1. Jams at maximum fuel
pressure:
The regulator is installed backwards.
The center screw in bottomed out inside and must be
backed off.
The fuel return line to the tank is plugged or crimped.
2. Pressure doesn’t rise:
No signal
Signal is blocked.
Pump won’t make any more than that pressure, squeeze the fuel line shut
and check the
deadhead
pressure.
3. Pressure rises, but not
enough:
Close the
needle valve.
Increase the center screw
(static) adjustment.
Check the pump again, but remember, it will have less pressure at high
loads, than at idle.
Remove the restrictor.
4. Pressure rises, but too
high:
Open the needle valve further.
Back off the center screw
somewhat.
Add the restrictor.
Check Valve installed backwards.
5. Fuel pressure won’t return to
stock at idle:
No check valve.
Check valve installed backwards.
6. Fuel pressure
oscillates:
A
slow oscillation of about one hertz can also result from the regulator
being hooked up backwards.
A faster oscillation, more like a
buzz, but without the noise, is usually induced by a rapid pulsation
from the fuel pump. Not much can fix it short
of a
different brand of pump or a pulse damper. The
condition is
not harmful at boost pressures of 8 psi or less.
If
buzzing, turn the center screw a 1/4 of a revolution, and it usually
ceases.
7. Regulator buzzes under
boost:
This
fault occurs occasionally when fuel pump and manifold pressure
oscillations overlap to reinforce
each other. Usually, it
can be quieted by turning the center screw one or two
flats. If it cannot be
quieted in this way, return the
regulator
to us
for an overhaulor replacement.
The B.E.G.I. Regulators are individually tested through the full range
of pressures prior to shipment. If none of the above prove effective in
tuning the regulator, call 830-438-2890. If needed, call us to
return the regulator to BEGi for service.
Warranty:
1.
The regulators are warranted for workmanship and function for one year
from the date of shipment form our facility. No open threads,
user
installed threaded items, or adjustable threads are warranted in
any
way.
2. If problems arise from
using teflon tape,
B.E.G.I. reserves the right to refuse warranty coverage for damages
caused to the regulator.
3. BEGI will not warranty
any FMU purchased
thru an online auction that is not purchased from an authorized dealer.
The customer must be able to provide proof of purchase for any warranty
repairs.
Patent Pending. Copyright
2006, BEGi, All Rights Reserved